County Laois — The Hidden Heart of Ireland

Tucked into the very centre of Ireland, County Laois (pronounced “Leesh”) is one of those places that most visitors drive through on the way to somewhere else — and that is entirely their loss. This landlocked county in the midlands has a quiet confidence about it: ancient monastic ruins, stately gardens, wild mountain trails, and some of the finest heritage towns in the country.

What Laois lacks in coastline it more than makes up for in character. The Slieve Bloom Mountains offer some of the most peaceful hillwalking in Ireland, free from the crowds that descend on Kerry and Wicklow. The county’s towns — Abbeyleix, Portlaoise, Mountmellick, Durrow — carry their history with dignity, each with stories that stretch back centuries.

The Rock of Dunamase — A Fortress Above the Plains

Rising dramatically from the flat midlands, the Rock of Dunamase is one of the most striking ruins in Ireland. This 12th-century Anglo-Norman fortress sits on a limestone outcrop that has been fortified since the early Iron Age. The views from the summit are extraordinary — on a clear day you can see across five counties.

The castle was once the stronghold of Diarmait Mac Murchada, the Leinster king whose invitation to the Normans changed Irish history forever. His daughter Aoife married Strongbow here, and the fortress passed through English and Irish hands for centuries before Cromwell’s forces reduced it to rubble in 1650. What remains is haunting — crumbling walls and towers that still command the landscape as they have for nearly a thousand years.

The Slieve Bloom Mountains — Ireland’s Secret Walking Country

The Slieve Blooms are the oldest mountains in Ireland — and among the oldest in all of Europe. They straddle the Laois-Offaly border and rise to 527 metres at Arderin, the highest point. The 77-kilometre Slieve Bloom Way loops through blanket bog, conifer forest, and exposed ridgelines with views that seem to stretch to every corner of Ireland.

Unlike the popular mountain ranges in the west, you can walk for hours here without seeing another soul. The trails through Glenbarrow and the Ridge of Capard are particularly rewarding — the Glenbarrow waterfall, hidden in a mossy gorge, is one of the finest in the midlands. In spring, the mountain heather and wildflowers transform the uplands into a carpet of purple and gold.

Abbeyleix — Ireland’s Most Beautiful Heritage Town

Abbeyleix regularly appears on lists of Ireland’s prettiest towns, and for good reason. The main street is lined with colourful shopfronts, many of them original 18th-century buildings. The town was planned by the de Vesci family in the 1770s and has kept its elegant proportions ever since.

The Abbeyleix Heritage House is well worth a stop — it tells the story of the town’s famous carpet-making industry (Abbeyleix carpets once graced the Titanic) and the remarkable de Vesci estate. Just outside town, the Abbeyleix Bog Walk takes you through one of the last intact raised bogs in Ireland, a 10,000-year-old ecosystem that was saved from industrial harvesting by a determined local campaign in the 1990s.

Emo Court — A Georgian Masterpiece

Designed by the great James Gandon — the same architect who built Dublin’s Custom House and Four Courts — Emo Court is one of the finest neoclassical houses in Ireland. Built in 1790 for the Earl of Portarlington, the house is all grand columns, rotundas, and gilded plasterwork.

The real treasure, though, is the surrounding parkland. Twenty hectares of formal gardens and woodland walks lead through groves of giant sequoias, an azalea walk, and a lakeside path that is especially beautiful in autumn. Emo Court is managed by the OPW and admission is free — one of Ireland’s best-kept secrets for a quiet afternoon out.

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Durrow and the Book of Durrow

The village of Durrow in southern Laois is the birthplace of one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. The Book of Durrow, a 7th-century illuminated gospel manuscript that predates the Book of Kells by a century, was created at the monastery founded here by St Colmcille. The original is now in Trinity College Dublin, but Durrow itself retains the quiet, contemplative atmosphere of its monastic past.

The Castle Durrow estate, built on the old monastery grounds, is now a luxury hotel. Even if you do not stay, a walk through the grounds gives a sense of the deep history layered into this landscape. The annual Durrow Scarecrow Festival in August is one of the most entertaining community events in Ireland — hundreds of handmade scarecrows line every road and garden in the village.

Mountmellick and the Quaker Heritage

Mountmellick has a story unlike any other Irish town. In the 18th century, a thriving Quaker community transformed this small market town into an industrial powerhouse — linen mills, cotton factories, breweries, and tanneries lined the River Owenass. At its peak, Mountmellick was one of the most prosperous towns in Ireland.

The Quaker legacy lives on in the town’s architecture and in Mountmellick embroidery, a distinctive white-on-white needlework tradition inspired by the wildflowers of the surrounding bogs. The Mountmellick Heritage Centre documents this remarkable period. The town is also the starting point for several lovely walks along the Owenass River and into the Slieve Bloom foothills.

Timahoe Round Tower — A Thousand Years of Silence

Standing nearly 30 metres tall in a quiet graveyard, the Timahoe Round Tower is one of the finest in Ireland. Built in the 12th century on the site of a 6th-century monastery founded by St Mochua, the tower has a beautifully carved Romanesque doorway featuring intertwined human faces — a detail that sets it apart from most Irish round towers.

The surrounding graveyard is peaceful and largely unvisited. Standing here, with the tower casting its shadow across centuries of headstones, it is easy to feel the weight of a thousand years of continuous worship and burial on this one small patch of Laois ground.

Food and Drink

Laois punches well above its weight for food. The Pantry Café in Portlaoise and the Gallic Kitchen in Abbeyleix are both excellent. The county is increasingly known for its artisan producers — look out for Aghaboe cheese, Ballykilcavan Brewery (one of Ireland’s oldest farming families, now brewing exceptional craft beer on land they have worked since 1639), and the excellent local farmers’ markets in Portlaoise and Abbeyleix.

For a proper pint and a session, Morrissey’s in Abbeyleix is legendary — a pub and grocery shop that has barely changed since 1775. It holds the distinction of being one of the oldest continuously trading businesses in Ireland, and the atmosphere is everything a real Irish pub should be.

Getting There and Getting Around

Laois is one of the most accessible counties in Ireland. Portlaoise is just over an hour from Dublin by road (M7 motorway) or by rail (regular services from Heuston Station). The county’s central location makes it an ideal base for exploring the midlands — Kilkenny, Cashel, and Birr are all within easy driving distance.

A car is essential for reaching the Slieve Blooms and the smaller towns, but the main routes are well-maintained and traffic is rarely an issue. Most of Laois can be comfortably explored in two to three days, though the walking in the Slieve Blooms alone could fill a week.

Secure Your Dream Irish Experience Before It’s Gone!

Planning a trip to Ireland? Don’t let sold-out tours or packed attractions spoil your journey. Iconic experiences like visiting the Cliffs of Moher, exploring the Rock of Cashel, or enjoying a guided walk through Ireland’s ancient past often sell out quickly—especially during peak travel seasons.

Booking in advance guarantees your place and ensures you can fully immerse yourself in the rich culture and breathtaking scenery without stress or disappointment. You’ll also free up time to explore Ireland’s hidden gems and savour those authentic moments that make your trip truly special.

Make the most of your journey—start planning today and secure those must-do experiences before they’re gone!