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County Westmeath: The Heart of Ireland’s Ancient East

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Sitting right at the geographical centre of Ireland, County Westmeath is a place that rewards those who look beyond the obvious. While the tour buses head west to Galway or south to Killarney, Westmeath quietly guards some of Ireland’s most extraordinary treasures — from an Anglo-Norman castle where the first Irish parliament sat to the serene shores of Lough Ennell, where the light changes by the hour.

Athlone town and the River Shannon, County Westmeath, Ireland
Athlone and the River Shannon, County Westmeath

Athlone: Gateway to the West

Straddling the River Shannon at the point where it widens into Lough Ree, Athlone is Westmeath’s largest town and one of the most vibrant in the Irish midlands. Athlone Castle, built in 1210 by King John, survived one of the bloodiest sieges in Irish history during the Williamite War of 1691. Today it houses a superb interactive museum that brings those turbulent centuries to life.

Just a few steps from the castle, Sean’s Bar holds a Guinness World Record as the oldest pub in Ireland — and quite possibly the world — with records dating back to 900 AD. The Left Bank quarter on the Connacht side of the Shannon has blossomed into a foodie destination, with craft beer, artisan bakeries, and restaurants that would not look out of place in Dublin or Galway.

Mullingar and the Midlands Lake Country

Mullingar, the county town, sits at the heart of Ireland’s lake country. The Royal Canal Greenway passes through town, offering a flat and scenic cycling route that stretches all the way to Dublin. It is one of Ireland’s finest long-distance cycling and walking trails, following the towpath through quiet countryside, over stone bridges, and past lock-keeper’s cottages.

To the south of Mullingar lies Lough Ennell, a limestone lake that has drawn anglers for generations. The Lilliput Adventure Centre on its northern shore takes its name from Jonathan Swift — the author of Gulliver’s Travels allegedly named Lilliput after this very area, where he often stayed as a guest of the local Rochfort family.

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Belvedere House and Gardens

Overlooking Lough Ennell, Belvedere House is one of Ireland’s most fascinating Georgian estates — as much for its scandalous history as for its beautiful gardens. Built in 1740 for Robert Rochfort, the 1st Earl of Belvedere, the house became the setting for one of 18th-century Ireland’s most notorious feuds. Rochfort imprisoned his wife Mary for 31 years, accusing her of an affair with his brother. The so-called “Jealous Wall,” a massive Gothic folly he built to block the view of his other brother’s grander house, still stands in the grounds today.

The 160 acres of parkland gardens cascade down to the lakeshore, with walled gardens, Victorian glasshouses, woodland trails, and a children’s adventure playground. It is Westmeath’s most-visited attraction and worth a full afternoon.

The Hill of Uisneach: Ireland’s Sacred Centre

Long before Tara claimed the title, the Hill of Uisneach was considered the spiritual and ceremonial centre of Ireland. Standing on this modest rise near Ballymore, you can see parts of 20 of Ireland’s 32 counties on a clear day. In Irish mythology, it was here that the goddess Ériu gave her name to the island — Éire.

The Cat Stone (Ail na Míreann), a massive limestone boulder at the summit, was said to mark the exact centre of Ireland where the five ancient provinces met. Each May, the Bealtaine festival is celebrated here with fire ceremonies that echo rituals stretching back thousands of years. Guided tours run from May to September and are one of the most atmospheric historical experiences you can have anywhere in Ireland.

Fore Abbey and the Seven Wonders

Tucked into a quiet valley near the Meath border, Fore Abbey is one of Ireland’s hidden treasures. This Benedictine priory, founded in the 7th century by St Féichín, is surrounded by the legend of the “Seven Wonders of Fore” — including water that flows uphill, wood that will not burn, and a stone raised by prayer. The ruins are atmospheric and largely unvisited, making this one of the most peaceful monastic sites in the country.

Lough Ree and the Shannon Corridor

Lough Ree, one of the three great lakes on the Shannon, forms Westmeath’s western boundary. Its islands are dotted with the remains of early Christian monasteries — some accessible only by boat. The Lough Ree Trail, a waymarked walking and cycling route, loops through the countryside around Glasson, which has been nicknamed “the village of the roses” for its award-winning floral displays.

Glasson itself has become one of the midlands’ best dining destinations, with the Glasson Lakehouse earning a reputation that draws food lovers from across the country. The village makes an ideal base for exploring the Shannon corridor by boat, foot, or bicycle.

Practical Tips for Visiting Westmeath

Westmeath is roughly 90 minutes from Dublin by car or train, with regular services to both Athlone and Mullingar. The county is ideally placed for a midlands touring holiday — combine it with neighbouring Offaly and Roscommon for a week exploring Ireland’s quiet heart. Spring and early summer are the best times for the Royal Canal Greenway and Uisneach, while autumn brings spectacular colours to Belvedere’s woodland walks.

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Secure Your Dream Irish Experience Before It’s Gone!

Planning a trip to Ireland? Don’t let sold-out tours or packed attractions spoil your journey. Iconic experiences like visiting the Cliffs of Moher, exploring the Rock of Cashel, or enjoying a guided walk through Ireland’s ancient past often sell out quickly—especially during peak travel seasons.

Booking in advance guarantees your place and ensures you can fully immerse yourself in the rich culture and breathtaking scenery without stress or disappointment. You’ll also free up time to explore Ireland’s hidden gems and savour those authentic moments that make your trip truly special.

Make the most of your journey—start planning today and secure those must-do experiences before they’re gone!

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Last updated May 29, 2023


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