Ask a group of Irish people to name the best island in Ireland and you’ll start a friendly argument that could last until closing time. Is it the rocky glory of Skellig Michael? The cliffs of Inis Mór? The Irish-speaking calm of Tory? Ireland has an enormous scatter of islands, and every one of them has a loyal fan club.
Here are our ten favourites, ranked. They’re our picks, so you’re very welcome to disagree. Tell us your number one in the comments. Many of these crossings depend on the weather, so always check ferry times before you travel.
1. Skellig Michael, County Kerry
A jagged rock almost 12 km off the Kerry coast, crowned by a monastery that monks built in the early medieval period. Climb the stone steps and the beehive cells appear above the Atlantic as if time forgot them. Landings are weather-dependent and limited to the summer season, so book early. Read how those stone huts have stood for 1,400 years, and what became of the lighthouse keepers who once lived nearby. Official info: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skellig_Michael.
2. Inis Mór, Aran Islands, County Galway
The largest of the three Aran Islands is a limestone world of dry-stone walls, Irish-speaking islanders and Dún Aonghasa, a prehistoric fort that sits right at the edge of a sheer sea cliff. Hire a bicycle, take the ferry from Rossaveel and give yourself a full day. Official info: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inis_Mór.
3. Achill Island, County Mayo
Ireland’s largest island is joined to the mainland by a bridge, so it’s the easiest great island on this list. Keem Bay’s crescent of sand, the high cliffs and the abandoned village on Slievemore make it endlessly photogenic. See what life in County Mayo is really like. Official info: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Achill_Island.
4. Valentia Island, County Kerry
Reached by bridge or a short car ferry, Valentia is a gentle, green island with big views of the Skellig coast. It was also the Irish end of the first lasting transatlantic telegraph cable. Our story, The Wire Beneath the Water, tells how a Kerry island became the birthplace of global telecommunications. Official info: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valentia_Island.
5. Cape Clear Island (Oileán Chléire), County Cork
Ireland’s most southerly inhabited island is a Gaeltacht community with a bird observatory, a tiny harbour and some of the best whale and dolphin watching on the south coast in the right season. Ferries sail from Baltimore. Official info: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cape_Clear_Island.
6. Tory Island (Toraigh), County Donegal
Out beyond the north-west tip of Donegal, Tory feels like the edge of the world. It has a strong Irish-language culture, its own tradition of painters and an island ‘king’, and a seabird-rich shoreline. Crossings depend on the sea, so be flexible. Official info: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tory_Island.
7. The Great Blasket, County Kerry
The islanders left in 1953, but the Blaskets still pull in visitors with their ruined village, grey seals and the extraordinary memoirs written by islanders. A ferry crosses from Dunquin in season; the white-sand beach on a calm day looks almost Caribbean. Plan your visit: The Great Blasket on Heritage Ireland.
8. Inis Oírr, Aran Islands, County Galway
The smallest Aran island is the quietest. Walk to the wreck of the Plassey, a ship that came ashore in 1960, explore the ruined O’Brien castle and listen out for Irish spoken in the lanes. Plan your visit: Inis Oírr on Discover Ireland.
9. Inishbofin, County Galway
A short ferry from Cleggan, Inishbofin has white beaches, a fortress with a long and sometimes grim history, and a warm, lively pub scene. It is a perfect weekend away. Official info: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inishbofin.
10. Garnish Island (Ilnacullin), County Cork
A tiny island in Bantry Bay, reached by a short boat ride from Glengarriff that often passes basking seals. Its Italian-style garden, designed in the early twentieth century, is the reward. Even the crossing is a joy. Official info: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Garnish_Island.
How we ranked them
We weighed four things: the sense of arrival (the moment the boat rounds the headland), how much history and living culture each island holds, how easy it is to get there and back, and how much you will want to tell someone about it afterwards. That is why Skellig Michael tops the list despite being the hardest to reach, while gentle, bridge-linked Achill and Valentia earn their places by being so welcoming.
Planning your island trip
Island travel in Ireland rewards a little flexibility. Ferries to the smaller islands can be cancelled when the Atlantic is rough, so build a spare day into your plans and check with the operator the morning you travel. Pack layers and a waterproof jacket whatever the forecast, wear proper walking shoes, and carry some cash, as card machines can be unreliable on the smallest islands.
Try to stay at least one night where you can. Once the day-trippers leave, the islands change: the light softens, the pubs fill with music and conversation, and you can hear the sea. Many islands also have a strong Irish-language tradition, so a few words of Irish such as dia dhuit and go raibh maith agat will always be appreciated.
Finally, remember that these are living communities, and some are fragile places. Stay on marked paths, take your rubbish home and respect nesting birds and seals. The islands have lasted for centuries; with a little care they will be there for the next generation of visitors too.
Do you agree?
Which island did we rank too low, and which did we miss entirely? Perhaps a favourite you visit every summer, or one your family came from. Leave a comment below and tell us your number one. Want a few more contenders? Our longer round-up of islands worth visiting covers some we didn’t have room for here. You might also enjoy the Irish sea god Manannán mac Lir, who still rules Ireland’s coastline in legend.
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