A gooseberry and elderflower fool takes about 20 minutes of work and needs no oven. You cook 500 g of gooseberries into a compote, stir in elderflower cordial and fold it through whipped cream. It serves four and keeps for two hours in the fridge.
I make this every June when the bushes in my neighbour’s garden are heavy with fruit. Gooseberries have grown in Irish gardens and along country lanes for centuries. Families knew summer had truly arrived when the bushes were ready for picking.
Where does the fool come from?
The fool is one of the oldest desserts in these islands. Its name is thought to come from the French fouler, meaning to press or crush. That suits the method well. You crush the fruit into a soft compote and then fold it through cream.
Ireland was a natural home for the dish. Dairy was plentiful, and wild soft fruits were part of every summer. Elder trees grow freely in Irish hedgerows too. Their white blossoms scent the air just as the gooseberries ripen. If you enjoy elderflower, try it in an Irish Maid cocktail as well.
Ingredients
- 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) fresh gooseberries, topped and tailed
- 80 g (3 oz) caster sugar, plus more to taste
- 2 tablespoons water
- 3 tablespoons elderflower cordial
- 300 ml (10 fl oz) double cream, well chilled
- 1 tablespoon icing sugar, sifted
Method
- Put the gooseberries, caster sugar and water in a medium saucepan. Cook on a low to medium heat for 8 to 12 minutes. Stir now and then. The fruit should collapse into a soft, thick compote.
- Taste the compote and add more sugar if you need it. Gooseberries vary a lot in tartness. Aim for pleasantly sharp, not sour. A little edge keeps the dessert fresh.
- Take the pan off the heat and stir in the elderflower cordial. Let the compote cool, then chill it in the fridge for at least one hour. Warm compote will make the cream collapse.
- Pour the cold cream into a large bowl and add the icing sugar. Whisk until it holds soft peaks. It should be thick enough to fold but still light.
- Spoon the cold compote over the cream. Fold it in with a large metal spoon. Leave visible swirls of fruit. They look lovely and give each spoonful a different taste.
- Divide the fool between four glasses. Serve straight away for the best texture. You can also chill it for up to two hours.
Tips from my kitchen
- Frozen gooseberries work well. Cook them from frozen and add two extra minutes.
- For a smoother fool, press the cooled compote through a sieve to remove the skins.
- Cordial brands differ in strength. Start with two tablespoons and add the third if you want more flavour.
- Serve with crushed shortbread or a thin biscuit on the rim of the glass.
- For a dinner party, keep the compote and cream apart. Fold them together an hour before serving.
What to serve alongside
A fool is rich, so keep the rest of the meal simple. A slice of fresh soda bread and good butter makes a lovely start to a summer lunch. For more ideas, read our piece on why Irish restaurant food surprises so many visitors.
Frequently asked questions
Can I make gooseberry fool ahead of time?
Yes. Make the compote a day ahead and keep it chilled. Whip the cream and fold them together within one hour of serving.
What can I use instead of elderflower cordial?
Use one tablespoon of honey and a squeeze of lemon. The flavour is less floral but still bright. You can also add a splash of elderflower liqueur for an adult version.
When is gooseberry season in Ireland?
Gooseberries ripen from late June to July. Some farm shops sell them into early August.
Why did my fool turn watery?
The compote was probably still warm, or the cream was over-whipped. Chill the fruit fully and stop whisking at soft peaks.
This is honest food: fruit from the hedge, cream from the dairy and a splash of something floral. Make it once and you will look forward to gooseberry season every year.
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